Skip to content

Installing Concrete Anchors for Lift

So finally came around installing the epoxy anchors for the lift.

It was a bit challenging because it requires a hammer drill with a SDS 7/8″ masonry drill bit to drill through the concrete.

The whole needed to be at minimum 6″ deep. Even withy pretty beefy Milwaukee hammer drill, It literally depleted one battery pack per hole. A total of 13 holes and depletion of 13 batteries.

Drilling

The instructions on the box wasn’t very clear on how deep the drilled hole needed to be. So I drilled all 10 holes 5 inches deep.

I had a vacuum going next to the holes which helped picking up all the loose concrete which can be very hazardous for breathing in.

Also to prevent the drill bit from walking, I used the Lift post as a guide/drill template.

It went pretty smooth as you can see.

After doing some research on Wejit’s anchor website, it turned out that I actually needed at least 6 1/4″ deep.

Cleaning and Prepping for Epoxy

This process is pretty important because if it is not done properly then the epoxy will not bond to the surface of the anchor and the lift will not be securely fastened to the floor – which then can result in a catastrophic failure.

The instruction asked to use compressed air to blow out the drilled holes at minimum 4 times while using a vacuum cleaner simultaneously to suck up the loose particles.

And then use a wire brush to clean it. However, after I used the wire brush, there were so much loose particle created, I had to repeat the compressed air cleaning method again.

Epoxy Dispense – 1st try

So the first time I wasn’t successful. According to the instructions on the box and instructions on the epoxy, I had trouble twisting the anchor to be flush against the concrete.

I filled up 2/3 of the hole with epoxy using a dispense gun.

After realizing that I couldn’t get the anchor all the way in I got scared and twisted it out before the epoxy could cure.

Epoxy Dispense – 2nd Try

After I got scared and allowed the dispensed epoxy cure, the next day I went back and drilled out the cured epoxy. What I didn’t realize was I drilled an additional 1″ (total of 6″ which is what I needed, where as the rest of the drilled holes are still only 5″ deep).

I also found instructions online on the anchor which explained the top part that’s protruding above the concrete is designed to be a friction fit and needed hammering (with a screw) for installation.

I used masking tape to prevent over spillage of epoxy

Eye protection is very important

So the moment I used a hammer to smack down on the anchor, the epoxy gushed our so fast it went straight into my eyes.

I immediately ran into the house and washed my eyes. Fortunately nothing was bad. For some reason the little hammer didn’t do the job so I had to bust out the bmf (mechanic word: Big Mother F-ing) Hammer.

Second Anchor Failure

So when I got to the second anchor I realize that I really screwed up. At this stage, I didn’t know the rest of the holes aren’t deep enough for the anchor to sit flush.

I literally was hammering away with the big hammer, mushrooming 2 sets of screws, sweat dripping down my eyes, cursing away, missing the target breaking the flat concrete surface around the anchor hole, until I finally gave up.

The worst part is the screw so far and I could not take it back out anymore.

And then I started putting the anchor next to the drillbit realizing that I didn’t drill deep enough as I only drilled through the hole with the baseplate of the lift post to the shank of the drill bit. I didn’t factor into the additional 3/4″ thickness of the baseplate.

As you can see, I royally messed this anchor up big time. At this point I called it a day and decide to not go back to it today.

Gave up for an afternoon

After stepping away for hours spending time with family and dwelling over this problem, I had enough courage and the motivation to knock out the rest of the holes.

I re-drilled all the holes an additional 1″ and re-cleaned them all.

The first thing I came up with was eye protection. The second was a way to use shop towels to cover up the anchor while hammering away to prevent epoxy from splatting all over the car, TV and my eyes.

In less than an hour I did both sides anchors.

Reworking the protruding Anchor

I researched these are Carbon Steel Anchors. Turns out my Dremel with a fiberglass reinforced disc came in handy and was able to cut it off.

Drilled 3 more holes for wider configuration

The 370z for some reason needed a wider configuration for the jack points to align with the jack. (Has morning to do with the car track being wide). It’s just the jack locations on the car isn’t as similar as my Toyota Sienna and the Lexus IS.

If I keep the same lift post configuration, I can still make it work, but the front arms will need to be lifting the car at the frame instead of at the front jack point.

Patching up concrete

To wrap this up clean I bought some concrete patch to fill back in the void and try to make it more professional.

These are relatively easy to use. I got some shoulder screws to keep any of these epoxy or patch mix out of the threads.

I went around and did all the other holes so the entire anchor is covered with concrete mix except for the the threaded hole.

As a recommendation from one of the Home Depot tool rental guy – I’m so glad I did this before the epoxy floor coating. Because the hammer will crake the concrete often times even if I strike properly onto the screw only.

After patching them all, I backed out the screw a few turns to prevent the concrete patch to dry with the shoulder screw bonded together. (Even though technically it has so much machining oil and I doubt the bond is that strong)

I also over applied as the next step is to flatten it out using a concrete floor grinder.

Wish me luck. I really hope to make more progress with grinding the floor by the end of this weekend if my kids allow me.

Categories

DIY, Garage

%d bloggers like this: